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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: LPG system: Faulty Detector or Det Shutoff Valve???
As already stated..can you light anything else...does the stove top fan the lighter you are using? If no...then I suspect your saftey shutoff valve. I would TEMPORARILY jump it at the sensor to see if the valve will open. If it does, then the sensor is faulting out. By the way it was not uncommon for the older sensors/safety shutoff mechanisms to do some weird things.....Brian
After thought...can you gently open the bleeder (small screw in the valve)at the tank filler valve to make sure there really is propane in there.
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lv2rom
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09/04/08 04:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Propane regulator question?
Check the screen in on the regulator, if it is not clear and open it could cause this problem.
Yep, use an old toothbrush to clean the screen on the bottom of the regulator...if it persists..it sounds like time for a new one...Brian
PS: An after thought...make sure the supply line from the tank to the regulator doesn't have a kink in it.
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lv2rom
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09/04/08 04:48pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Slide adjustment
Underneath the outer wall of the slide there is a bracket that is bolted to each of the the two slide mechanisms. They have slotted holes for the bolts holding the brackets to the slide frame. These slotted holes provide vertical adjustment of the slide and can easily be done while the slide is in the full OUT position.
HTH
He's pretty well got it here. Slide is NOT adjusted properly if it catches. Word of caution here though...you must "catch" (blocks or whatever) the weight of the slide itself BEFORE you loosen the adjustment bolts. Sounds like you need to loosen the front slide out mechanism vertical adj bolt, lower the slide box itself a little bit then retighten.....Brian
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lv2rom
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09/04/08 04:36pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Crossing into Canada
Thanks for all of the advice from all who responded. I forgot one other question. Will I have any problems with customs over my pet, a small dog? I will have her rabies & other medical info with me.
I believe the rabies certificate has to be within the last 30days of your time of entry if I remember correctly, maybe someone else can verify....Brian
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lv2rom
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09/04/08 04:27pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Vent fan options
Most of the max airs have a variable slot on the flange, and three different places (forward and aft) that you can pick from. You should not have to make any holes in your roof if you use the mounting brackets that attach to the side (shoulder) of your existing vent, so forget about the Dicor totally. Also, I hate trying to use the littles nuts, bolts, lock washers, and washers they supply. I just use a 3/4" #8 self tapper and run her into the side of the vent. No problems in over 20 years...Hope this helps, Brian
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lv2rom
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09/04/08 01:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Crossing into Canada
You should have a passport, or a least some good photo ID. Your insurance agent can issue you a Canadian Ins ID card (get one for your truck and your rig). While they are not "required" you must be able to produce one in the event of an accident or something.
Bear in mind that most of the signs in Quebec will be in French only (interesting that the rest of Canada has them in English and French for them!!).
I agree with the prior poster, I find most FC's to be arrogant and even if they can speak english they won't. Bear in mind that many cities and towns are very old and the streets can sometimes be quite narrow, so watch what streets you end up on with your rig.
All that bad stuff said it is a beautiful province and Quebec city alone is worth the trip. Enjoy yourself....Brian
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lv2rom
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09/04/08 01:36pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: BATTERIES/SOLAR...PROBLEMS...HELP
This is an easy one. You need ten times as much
solar. Get yourself a pair of 150 watt panels.
Problem solved.
Now that's over the top.....300watts of solar to keep two grp 27 batteries charged up....even I know better than that, but thanks for responding....Brian
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lv2rom
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09/02/08 06:38pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: BATTERIES/SOLAR...PROBLEMS...HELP
UPDATE...UPDATE....Good news, bad news. Finally got the meter out and did some detail testing..one panel was putting out in the appproved range (16 to 24v) actually 20.4v and around 600ma. The other however was only 4.5 to 5.5v and .7ma. So...a dead soldier. I t has a five year warranty so I called Sunforce today (Montreal, Quebec). I must pay to sent it to a collection center in upstate New York, who then sends it up to Canada. They do the diagnostics, determine the status, and maybe send me a replacement.
At this time I'm not impressed with SunForce,....but time will tell..Just thought I'd give you this FYI...Brian
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lv2rom
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09/02/08 02:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fridge can't stay cool enough!
Move the thermister (slider on fin) down for cooler.
Rich
WRONG!!!!! If you want the refer to run cooler you must move the sensor (themistor) UP into warmer air....Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 06:08pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold 3-way propane won't start
Sounds like an air lock, you are getting intermittent flow..it takes a while to get the propane flowing ....try lighting the stove top first to bleed it out. Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 04:49pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Fridge can't stay cool enough!
You would know if you had a leak....it wouldn't work at all. Do you have a circulating fan inside the refer? Make sure the area around the thermister (that should be up at the top of the fin) is clear. If the sun just nails that side of the rig, can you shade it with a blanket or something (don't block the vents). How about a small fan blowing on that side in order to help the air up the flue (by the way.... I assume the flue is unobstructed and the burner tube is clean). These are just quick thoughts...my cure here in the hot midwest was a 12vdc muffin fan hung on the fins inside, and another one inside the roof vent drawing up...I then could raise my temp setting two notches....Hope some of this helps.....Brian
PS You can check the thermistor by putting in a glass of ice water (if you have any) and reading its resistance at the outside control board where it plugs in...should read between 9-12000 ohms.
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 04:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Workkamping in British Columbia
Not to be a smart a$$, but do you realize that any kind of compensation (space/salary/etc,etc) you get will require you to have a work visa??? They are real picky on that stuff up there.....Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 04:22pm |
Workamping Forum
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RE: BATTERIES/SOLAR...PROBLEMS...HELP
Thanks T-Bone...
Yeah..I already have my cables tied to positive of one and negative of the other to make them both work. I just ordered two more 15w panels (can always add more)...Amazon.com had them for $99 (same as everyone else), but free shipping this weekend.
Mike 4947....
Thanks for the links..I will read and digest in detail..
Thanks everyone...Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 01:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: BATTERIES/SOLAR...PROBLEMS...HELP
The 7 amp controller uses up to about 105 watts of solar power. It is using your power up before it can get to the batteries.
If you are using the 5 watt units they have a built in controller.
What is the true Sunforce model? It should be listed in watts.
6 volt batteries will have more capacity and will not drag down as fast as the 12 volts.
Now I'm really getting confused...you are saying the controller itself is gong to use 105 watts of power...sorry I'm no expert, it may be capable of handling that, but its not using it. As stated in the original post the panels are 15 watts each. Thank you all for your help...sounds like additional panels are in order....Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 12:45pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: BATTERIES/SOLAR...PROBLEMS...HELP
Thought I'd better jump in and let you know I am reading your responses and can answer some of your followup questions.
---There are no tank heaters involved
---While I haven't measured the actual pirate current draw I "THINK" it is minimal (propane sniffer, tv memory, refer, and refer fan (20ma)
---I have had each battery checked, and they rate out just fine
---The 300ma output from the solar is at the terminal leads coming down the refer vent. They are sunforce with a 7A in line controller
So at this point I'm thinking that the solar is just too small to help me much. Can anyone clarify for me whether I would gain going to two 6vdc batts (assuming a nearly the same capacity as the the current 210AH off of the parallel 12vdc's). I don't mean to start an elaborate debate...just verify my facts for me..2 12s in parallel the volts stay the same, but the amps add up....2 6s in series the amps stay the same but the volts add up.....OKAY???....Thanks for your feedback so far....Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 12:02pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 5th wheel pin height
I will guess this. ( trailer )is sitting level and what is the measurement from the ground to the pin.
chevman
Chevyman...it is obviously going to depend which hole the pin box is set at, even if it is sitting level. Most will go up or down two to three 1 1/2 inch adjustments. Is he trying to set one up or check whether or not he can tow it level????...More info....Brian
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 10:32am |
Fifth-Wheels
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BATTERIES/SOLAR...PROBLEMS...HELP
OK, I've searched and read and read...now I need guidance. I have two 12vdc 105ah batts in parallel, supplemented with two 15watt photoelectric solar panels in parallel. We are very conservative with juice, but when we camp the batts (one year old) will still drop to about 11.5vdc in about a day, and I have to start the genny. I have a progressive dynamics converter with the charge wizard so they come back fairly quickly.
I do make sure they are fully serviced and charged (about 13.2vdc) before we leave, and my truck charge line is working while driving. The humidity switch on the refer is off, and there are no other major "power pirates) that I can identify. When I read my solar output it is just over 300ma (a little cloudy today). So my ???'s are:
----would I be any better off with a couple of GOOD 6vdc batts even if the total AH doesn't increase significantly???
----Does an output of only 300+ ma from the solar sound right..seems low to me??
OK I've helped lots on here with infor...now I guess its my turn (I at least know my limitations)...so any and all input/guidance is appreciated.....Brian :@
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lv2rom
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08/31/08 10:26am |
Tech Issues
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RE: What else can I do?
First let me say that some shaking is inevitable (you are sitting on the trailer suspension). I have just added things over time, and think I am relatively stable now....Riser blocks under the front jacks and rear stabilizers to limit travel, wedge blocks (home made) between the tires, blocks in front and behind each wheel, a king pin stabilizer (I think they do make a different in not allowing the overhang to wiggle around). I'm sure many others will have their own ideas and opinions, but this is what works for me......Brian
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lv2rom
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08/09/08 08:19am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Screen porch attached to TT question
There are various ways to attach a screen house so I'll just give you the generic common sense answer. IF you penetrated the walls of your trailer in any way, and IF water can get to those holes/screws (whether or not a board is attached)....it will!!! This would allow water to enter the walls and begin its damage.....JMHO...Brian
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lv2rom
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08/09/08 08:08am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Slide seal lubrication and/or treatment in HOT weather
I know you are not concerned about UV exposuree so forget the sprays that are for that purpose. I do it to my big fiver whenever it's going to be out of use for an extended period of time. I have found two things to be quite effective at reducing the "possibility" of sticking seals or wipers. Bring the slide in to the last 6" then apply it to all of the wipers, seal faces, the back side of the slide flange, and the sides of the slide itself. This will probably bring some chuckles, but I use either baby powder, or corn starch, all I can tell you is I've never caught a seal.....Brian :C
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lv2rom
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08/09/08 06:00am |
Snowbirds
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